Fanny Pack Instructions | Model F002

STEP 1

1. Starting with the FRONT PANEL (both main and secondary fabric)

2. Locate the top edge of the panel. This will be the zipper edge as indicated on pattern.

3. Cut one zipper that extends past the side edges of the panel.

4. Place right side of zipper to the right side of the main fabric panel.

5. Place secondary fabric panel on wrong side of zipper. Sandwiching zipper in between both front panels.

6. Stitch top edge at .25 inch seam allowance.

7. Feel free to use a zipper foot if needed.

STEP 2

1. Fold wrong sides together lining up the outside edges.

2. Place a few pins to keep layers from moving around.

3. Add a top stitch to the top edge along the zipper. This step is optional. top stitching is a great way to make the bag look store bought and it will also make the end product more durable.

Pro Tip: use a edge presser foot to get a nice clean stitch and try matching the thread to the fabric color. This will help hide and imperfections within the stitch.

STEP 3

1. Grab FRONT TOP PANEL and FRONT PANEL ASSEMBLY.

2. The main fabric FRONT TOP PANEL will be placed directly across from the FRONT PANEL on the opposite side of the zipper with right sides together.

3. Place the right side of the secondary fabric FRONT TOP PANEL on the wrong side of the zipper.

4. Make sure both main and secondary fabric panels are lined up perfectly with the FRONT PANEL.

5. Place a few pins.

6. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 4

1. Fold wrong sides together lining up the outside edges.

2. Place a few pins to keep layers from moving around.

3. Add a top stitch to the top edge along the zipper. This step is optional. top stitching is a great way to make the bag look store bought and it will also make the end product more durable.

STEP 5

1. If you are using a zipper cut from a zipper roll. This is the step we add the zipper train.

2. Feel free to add the zipper train to either side of the fanny pack. We recommend adding it to the side that works best for the way you are going to wear the bag.

STEP 6

1. Grab the BACK POCKET PANEL and the FRONT PANEL assembly.

2. Locate the zipper edge at the top of the panel.

3. Place the right side of the BACK POCKET PANEL to the right side of the secondary fabric on the FRONT PANEL assembly linin up the top zipper edge.

STEP 7

1. Grab FRONT SIDE PANEL.

2. Locate the top edge. This will be the flat edge opposite of the diagonal edge.

3. Line up the FRONT SIDE PANELS on either side of the FRONT PANEL assembly.

4. Place the right sides together lining up the top zipper edge.

5. Add a few pins to secure layers together.

6. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 8

1. Trim zipper end flush with the seam allowance. This will prevent inside bulk when the fanny pack is complete.

2. Fold out the FRONT SIDE PANELS so the right sides are facing up.

3. Add a top stitch to the inside seam.

4. Top stitching is optional but it will help the back be more durable in the long run.

STEP 9

1. Grab BOTTOM INSIDE PANEL, FRONT PANEL assembly, and 16 inch zipper.

2. Locate the zipper edge at the top of the panel.

3. Place the right side of the zipper to the right side of the FRONT PANEL assembly.

4. Place the right side of the BOTTOM INSIDE PANEL to the wrong side of the zipper. Lining up the zipper edges on both the FRONT PANEL assembly and BOTTOM INSIDE PANEL.

5. Add a few pins.

6. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 10

1. Fold wrong sides together lining up the outside edges.

2. Place a few pins to keep layers from moving around.

3. Add a top stitch to the top edge along the zipper. This step is optional. top stitching is a great way to make the bag look store bought and it will also make the end product more durable.

STEP 11

1. Grab FRONT PANEL assembly and TOP PANEL.

2. Using the guides or folding the panels in half. Mark the center with chalk on both panels.

STEP 12

1. Place the right side curved edge of the TOP PANEL(main fabric panel) to the right side of the zipper. Lining up the center marks.

2. Repeat this step for the right side of the secondary fabric(TOP PANEL) on the wrong side of the zipper. Sandwiching the zipper in between both layers1

3. Place a pin through both layers and zipper directly in the center.

4. Starting at that center mark. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance toward the outside edge.

5. Move back to the center mark and stitch in the opposite direction.

Note: Starting the stitch in the center will help keep both panels centered and will make the top pocket perfectly aligned when the fanny pack is complete.

STEP 13

1. Fold the TOP PANEL back away from the zipper so the wrong sides of both layers are touching.

2. Line up the back edge of the PANEL.

3. Add a top stitch to zipper edge.

STEP 14

1. If you are using a zipper cut from a zipper roll. This is the step we add the zipper train.

2. Feel free to add the zipper train to either side of the fanny pack. We recommend adding it to the side that works best for the way you are going to wear the bag.

STEP 15

1. Grab FLAP PANEL both main and secondary fabric.

2. Locate the top edge.

3. Separate the sets(one main fabric paired with one secondary fabric) on both sides of the pocket assembly with top edge pointing the same direction as the TOP PANEL top edge.

4. Place the right side of the main fabric to the right side of the pocket assembly. Lining up the side edge of the FLAP PANEL with the side edge of the pocket assembly.

5. Repeat this step on the same side with the secondary fabric. Place the right side together for both secondary fabrics.

6. With pocket assembly sandwiched in between both layer of the FLAP PANEL. Place a few pins.

7. Repeat steps above for the other set of FLAP PANELS on the opposite side of the assembly.

8. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 16

1. Before folding wrong sides together. Take a minute to cut the zipper ends flush with the seam allowance. This will help prevent bulk build up within the panel.

2. After trimming. Fold the wrong side of the FLAP PANELS together lining up the outside edge.

3. Place a few pins.

4. Add a top stitch on the new seam. This top stitch is optional but highly recommended.

STEP 17

1. Grab BACK PANELS both main and secondary fabric layers.

2. Place the wrong sides together lining up the outside edges.

3. Using the pattern locate the webbing placement guides.

4. Cut 2 one yard strips of webbing(cut longer strips if you want the overall strap size to be larger).

5. Place the strips on both webbing placement guides on the right side of the main fabric layer.

6. Make sure webbing end is hanging off outside edge about 1-2 inches.

7. Tack stitch webbing down close as you can to the outside edge of the BACK PANEL.

NOTE: Tack stitching can be done with any type of sewing machine. It just requires you to go back and forth a few times to really lock down the webbing.

STEP 18

1. Grab both front and back assemblies.

2. Starting with back. Roll up the webbing to keep it out of the way. I used a rubber band to keep it tight together.

3. Using chalk mark the centers on both front and back assemblies.

STEP 19

1. With centers marked.

2. Place the main fabric right sides together lining up the center markings.

3. Place pins all the way around the outside edge.

4. The top, bottom, and side edges should all line up. Keep in mind the bottom curved edge will line up as we sew it. This is why I recommend only placing one pin on the bottom center edge.

5. With all pins in place and edges lined up. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance all the way around the outside edge.

STEP 20

1. After stitching. Trim the excess webbing ends flush with seam allowance.

2. Before moving on the the next step. Look inside the bag, This will be the right side of the fabric. Check to see if all of the layers are stitched together and all edges line up correctly. If everything is looking good you can move on to the next step.

STEP 21

This step we will go through the options for sealing off the raw edges on the inside of the bag.

The first option is us precut double fold bias tape. This step requires the least amount of machines and tool. The only thing required to the bias tape that can be purchased online or from your local fabric/hobby store.

To install the precut bias tape you simple fold it over the inside raw edge and stitch it down.

The second option is a bias tape making kit. A bias tape making kit is a handy tool set designed for sewing enthusiasts to create custom bias tapes with ease. Bias tape is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias (diagonally to the grain of the fabric) which makes it stretchy and flexible, ideal for finishing edges, binding seams, or creating decorative borders on fabric projects. The kit typically includes several essential tools to simplify the process of making bias tape from any fabric of your choice.

1. Bias Tape Makers: These are the central tools in the kit, coming in various widths to create different sizes of bias tape. A bias tape maker is a small, metal or plastic device through which you feed a strip of bias-cut fabric. As the fabric is pulled through the tool, it is folded into halves automatically, forming a neat, uniform strip. The narrow end of the tool is where the fabric is fed in, and as it comes out the wider end, it emerges folded.

2. Bias Binding Foot: Some kits include a bias binding foot for a sewing machine, which helps in attaching the bias tape to the fabric edges neatly and efficiently.

3. Awl or Fabric Feeder: This tool is used to help guide the fabric smoothly through the bias tape maker if needed.

4. Quilting Pins or Clips: These are used to hold the fabric in place, especially when pressing or sewing.

5. Measuring Tools: A ruler or measuring tape may be included for precise cutting of fabric strips.

How it Works:

1. Prepare the Fabric: First, you cut your fabric into strips at a 45-degree angle to the grain line. The width of the strips depends on the width of the bias tape maker and the desired width of the finished bias tape.

2. Feed the Fabric: Insert one end of the bias strip into the wide end of the bias tape maker. You might need to use an awl to help initiate the feeding process.

3. Iron as You Pull: As you gently pull the bias tape maker along the fabric strip, with the fabric emerging folded from the narrow end, you press (iron) the folds into place, creating a neat, flat bias tape.

4. Sewing (Optional): For double-fold bias tape, you would fold the tape once more along its length and press it again before sewing it onto your project. Some prefer to sew it directly onto the fabric as it comes out of the bias tape maker.

The final option is using a double fold bias take binder attachment. This is the most effective option.

A double fold bias tape binder attachment is a specialized sewing machine accessory designed to apply double-fold bias tape to the edges of fabric in one continuous action. It's an incredibly efficient tool for binding fabric edges, making it popular for finishing quilts, garments, and other sewing projects where a neat, durable edge is desired. This attachment simplifies the process of applying bias tape, saving time and ensuring consistent, professional-looking results.

How it Works:

1. Preparation of Bias Tape: Before using the attachment, you must have double-fold bias tape ready. Double-fold bias tape is a strip of fabric that has been cut on the bias (diagonally to the fabric's grain), then folded and pressed to hide raw edges. It is folded in half again to encase raw fabric edges fully. You can make your own bias tape using a bias tape maker tool or purchase pre-made bias tape.

2. Attachment to the Sewing Machine: The double fold bias tape binder attachment is mounted onto the sewing machine in place of the standard presser foot. It is attached to the machine's foot holder or shank, depending on the specific design of your sewing machine and the attachment.

3. Feeding the Bias Tape and Fabric: The bias tape is fed into the binder through a series of slots or guides that first unfold it to its full width. The raw edge of the fabric that needs binding is then placed in between the unfolded layers of the bias tape as it enters the attachment. As the tape and fabric are fed through the attachment, the bias tape is refolded over the fabric's edge, encasing it completely.

4. Sewing: As you sew, the attachment guides the encased fabric edge under the needle, allowing you to stitch the bias tape in place in one step. The sewing machine stitches through the bias tape and fabric, securing the tape and creating a neatly bound edge.

   
   

• Efficiency: Significantly reduces the time and effort required to apply bias tape, especially on large projects.

• Consistency: Ensures uniform, consistent binding along the length of the fabric edge.

• Versatility: Can be used on a wide range of fabric types and projects, from clothing to home décor.

STEP 22

1. I typical use the double fold bias tape attachment. It is the best way to do if you plan on making multiple bags.

2. Since this bag have 90 degree corners. I start by bias taping the side edges. Trim the excess bias tape flush with the top and bottom edge.

3. Then I finish up by adding bias tape to the top and bottom edge and leave about 2-4 inches extra on both sides.

STEP 23

1. Next finish of the ends by snipping so there is 1-2 inches left.

2. Roll the ends over twice to hide the raw edge.

3. Tack stitch all 4 ends down.

4. This will also help secure seam and prevent unraveling.

STEP 24

1. After adding the bias tape to the inside edge. Pull the right sides out.

2. Poke all corners out using a sharp edge or tool.

STEP 25

1. Next we we will be adding the strap slider and buckle. I recommend using a buckle and slider that matches the width of your webbing.

2. Start by feeding the strap slider on to either side of the webbing strap. Move the slider about 12 inches down the webbing strap.

3. On the same strap we will add the buckle. I am using a buckle that has two different ends. It does not matter what end you use if you are using a similar buckle. Feed the webbing though the buckle opening so it loop back down toward the underside of the strap.

4. Pull excess webbing through the strap slider.

5. Feed the webbing end back through the underside and outer most opening of the strap slider.

6. Loop the webbing end back down through the opposite end of the strap slider.

7. Pull webbing end out about 4-6 inches.

8. Roll the webbing end over once or twice and tack stitch the webbing end down.

STEP 26

1. Finish the strap by feeding the opposite side of the buckle though the remining opening on the buckle.

2. Feed webbing in the direction from top to bottom.

3. Roll the webbing end over once or twice and add a tack stitch.

4. Feel free to add a box stitch, X stitch, or multiple bar tack stitches. The more you add the stronger the strap will be.

FINISHED

The final step is adding your custom branding. Adding a branded leather patch to your fanny pack is a fantastic way to customize and elevate the final product. By incorporating your brand, you not only enhance the aesthetic appeal but also infuse a sense of identity and uniqueness into the design. Here's how the process works, especially with the use of double-sided rivets, to secure the branded leather effectively:

1. Branded Leather Creation: The first step involves creating a leather patch that carries your brand's logo or name. This can be achieved through various methods such as stamping, burning, laser engraving, or embossing, depending on the desired effect and the resources available. The key is to ensure clarity and durability of the branding on the leather, as this will be a prominent feature of the fanny pack.

2. Positioning: Once the branded leather patch is ready, the next step is to decide on its placement on the fanny pack. The location is crucial as it affects visibility and aesthetics. Common spots include the front center, where it's most visible, or on a discreet side for a more understated approach. The goal is to choose a spot that complements the design of the fanny pack and enhances its overall look.

3. Using Double-Sided Rivets: Double-sided rivets are chosen for their strength and ability to securely fasten the leather patch without damaging the materials. To attach the patch, small holes are made in the corners of the leather patch and corresponding spots on the fanny pack. The double-sided rivets are then inserted through these holes from the underside of the fanny pack fabric, through the leather patch, and capped on the top side. A rivet setter tool is used to clamp down the rivets, ensuring a tight and secure attachment.

Adding a branded leather patch with double-sided rivets to a fanny pack not only personalizes the item but also significantly boosts its value, making it a unique piece that stands out. This customization is a testament to craftsmanship and attention to detail, reflecting the maker's pride and the brand's identity. It transforms the fanny pack from a mere accessory into a statement piece, enhancing its appeal to customers looking for something special and personal.

Thank you! for taking the time to explore our fanny pack sewing project! It's been a pleasure to share this creative journey with you, and I sincerely hope you enjoyed the process of making your very own fanny pack. Crafting something with your own hands is a rewarding experience, and using your creativity to produce a beautiful, finished product is truly special. I hope that your fanny pack not only turned out great but also reflects your unique style and creativity. Thank you again for joining in on this sewing adventure. May your new fanny pack accompany you on many exciting outings, filled with pride in your craftsmanship and the joy of creation.